Europe

A Much Better Sunday

After Saturday’s somewhat somber post, I thought I should offer a brief update after an excellent Sunday. The weather here has been remarkable the past few days, with clear, blue skies and no wind at all. Quite a change from the first few evenings, when wind was rattling the foundations of my cabin and the rain obscured the views of the mountains around me. Yesterday...

A More Difficult, More Thoughtful Day

Today was my first difficult day of the trip, and one of those moments when I wish I were a better writer,  more able to convey what I experienced and why it affected my day so much. The day started with a drive into Liegarnes,  the largest town close to where I’m staying.  On the edge of town,  I was stopped by my first Spanish traffic jam : a group of young...

My Cabin in Cantabria

I’ve made an excellent choice. While I suspect being off in the mountains alone for a few weeks, with limited Internet and contact with others, might not appeal to some, and the idea that I can disconnect may seem quite surprising, I’m already in love with this place. It’s incredibly beautiful: if the photo of the bridge leading to the beginning of the Camino de...

The Camino Day 1: A Bruja, Sirens, and The Tricks of Memory

My first day on the Camino was arduous and exhilarating all at once—and only slightly interrupted by disaster! When I left St. Jean Pied de Port this morning, the city was covered in a light fog that stretched out for the first hour before the sun burned it away, revealing a verdant, lush set of valleys and hills that I eagerly set out to cross. I even found myself...

Bordeaux, September 2015

I really only had one full day here in Bordeaux, with a late plane arrival last night and an early train departure tomorrow, but really enjoyed spending the day wandering the city with no particular agenda in mind nor even a map in hand. It’s a remarkable city, with so many preserved buildings, very old Cathedrals and churches, a pronounced Mediterranean feel...

Standing at the Edge of the World

I normally follow the belief that there is no scene in the world improved by my presence in it, so you will never see a photograph of me in front of the Eiffel Tower or some towering Glacier. Beard selfies aside, I generally don’t photograph myself very often, but two evenings ago, standing at what seemed like the edge of the world, it was hard to resist. After...

Why Do I Love Iceland So Much?

Given that this is my third trip to Iceland in as many years, people are always interested to know what I love so much about the country, and I’m not sure that I have ever been able to give a complete answer. As I was driving with a new friend from France today, though, I think I started to stumble towards an answer. We were talking about the difficulty of taking...